Problemi volanti e setup consigliati force feedback

[gbregan]

 

Relative Adjust Gain 1.10 (1.00 okay also)

Relative Adjust Bleed 0.10

Relative Adjust Clamp 0.95

 

Scusami, questi 3 valori come sono indicati in italiano? Avendo i menu in italiano non capisco a cosa corrispondono e in quale menu trovo queste 3 voci

 

grazie!

 

 

[robosub]

inglese                                                               Italiano

Relative Adjust Gain 1.10 (1.00 okay also)   Compensazione guadagno

Relative Adjust Bleed 0.10                         Compensazione spurgo

Relative Adjust Clamp 0.95                        Compensazione bloccaggio 

[robosub]

pota ... è dal 7 maggio che tento di trovare feeling con l Elite ... seguo i vostri consigli .. e provo e riprovo..

migliorato molto , ma mi rimane quella poca maneggevolezza .. con conseguente perdita di tempo su giro..

e anche la frenata ..non è che sia potente come mi aspetterei .. insomma sono lento e impreciso..più della mia incapacità abituale 

 

sul volante tengo off tutto tranne FF che  è impostato a  100, mentre  in game ho seguito i consigli per il g27 ... 

 

ho insrito i file di Jack Spade... documenti/project cars ...  

non capisco ..(vabbe che sono un nubbio)..ma in documenti/project cars non c'erano i settaggi che avevo fatto io 

pensavo che come su AC si formasse la cartella con il salvataggio del setup , auto per auto ..bho .. dove li salva project cars??

 

ora vedo che consigliate di prendere auto per auto e portar i valori a zero... ci ho capito il giusto ma proverò ..

mi sà che a furia di smanettare .. peggioro ..

forse dovrei rimettere l FF originale e usare solo i file di Spade? ... sennò passo al PAD 

[bbr andy]

@bbr andy  prova questo sulla R8 LMS Ultra e vedi come ti sembra:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" ?>

 

<!-- Default force feedback tweakers. -->

 

<config>

<value TopologyVersion="4" />

 

<value SpindleMasterScale="0.22" />

 

<value SpindleArm="10.0" />

 

<value SpindleFxScale="-1.2" />

<value SpindleFxLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleFyScale="0.0" />

<value SpindleFyLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleFzScale="0.1" />

<value SpindleFzLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleMzScale="2.0" />

<value SpindleMzLoPass="0.8" />

 

<value SoPScale="0.5" />

 

<value SoPLateral="0.09" />

<value SoPDifferential="0.2" />

<value SoPLoPass="0.2" />

 

<value RelativeGain="0.0" />

<value RelativeBleed="0.0" />

<value RelativeClamp="0.0" />

 

<value ArmScale="0.0" />

<value ArmMass="0.0" />

<value ArmStiffness="0.0" />

<value ArmDamping="0.0" />

 

<value GutScale="0.0" />

<value GutLongScale="0.0" />

<value GutMass="0.0" />

<value GutStiffness="0.0" />

<value GutDamping="0.0" />

 

<value ScoopKnee="0.0" />

<value ScoopReduction="0.0" />

 

<value TightenCenterRange="0.0" />

<value TightenCenterFalloff="0.0" />

 

<value SoftClip="1.0" />

   

<value BaseDrag="-0.0008" />

<value BaseDragSqr="0.0004" />

<value BaseDragLoPass="0.02" />

 

<value DisableDynamicSpring="true" />

<value DisableLockSpring="true" />

<value DisableSlowSpring="true" />

<value DisableScrub="true" />

<value DisableThrottleVibe="true" />

<value DisableJolt="true" />

<value DisableWheelSpin="true" />

<value DisableGearChange="true" />

<value DisableRumbleStrip="true" />

 

</config>

@bbr andy  prova questo sulla R8 LMS Ultra e vedi come ti sembra:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" ?>

 

<!-- Default force feedback tweakers. -->

 

<config>

<value TopologyVersion="4" />

 

<value SpindleMasterScale="0.22" />

 

<value SpindleArm="10.0" />

 

<value SpindleFxScale="-1.2" />

<value SpindleFxLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleFyScale="0.0" />

<value SpindleFyLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleFzScale="0.1" />

<value SpindleFzLoPass="0.0" />

 

<value SpindleMzScale="2.0" />

<value SpindleMzLoPass="0.8" />

 

<value SoPScale="0.5" />

 

<value SoPLateral="0.09" />

<value SoPDifferential="0.2" />

<value SoPLoPass="0.2" />

 

<value RelativeGain="0.0" />

<value RelativeBleed="0.0" />

<value RelativeClamp="0.0" />

 

<value ArmScale="0.0" />

<value ArmMass="0.0" />

<value ArmStiffness="0.0" />

<value ArmDamping="0.0" />

 

<value GutScale="0.0" />

<value GutLongScale="0.0" />

<value GutMass="0.0" />

<value GutStiffness="0.0" />

<value GutDamping="0.0" />

 

<value ScoopKnee="0.0" />

<value ScoopReduction="0.0" />

 

<value TightenCenterRange="0.0" />

<value TightenCenterFalloff="0.0" />

 

<value SoftClip="1.0" />

   

<value BaseDrag="-0.0008" />

<value BaseDragSqr="0.0004" />

<value BaseDragLoPass="0.02" />

 

<value DisableDynamicSpring="true" />

<value DisableLockSpring="true" />

<value DisableSlowSpring="true" />

<value DisableScrub="true" />

<value DisableThrottleVibe="true" />

<value DisableJolt="true" />

<value DisableWheelSpin="true" />

<value DisableGearChange="true" />

<value DisableRumbleStrip="true" />

 

</config>

Ho provato giusto 5minuti..ma ho notato che ci sono meno effetti, è soprattutto un eccessivo alleggerimento irreale x me... Sempre di continuo a contrastare.. Appena tocchi il volante di alleggerisce, x me è esagerato

[Tr51]

PROJECT CARS

 

In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

 

Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations.

 

Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating.

 

Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here.

 

Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque.

 

Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point.

 

Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force.

 

Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep.

 

Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0.

 

Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off.

 

Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip.

 

Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

 

General FFB strength

Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

 

Tyre Force

This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

 

The car-specific settings

These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

 

 

Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.

 

Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.

 

Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.

 

Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.

 

Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

 

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

 

 

 

___________________________

 

 

Notes:

4/16/15

The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.

 

Or: UPDATE

actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.

 

After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.

 

Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.

 

Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):

 

Fx = 48

Fy = 44

Fz = 54

Mz = 100

 

Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.

 

Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.

 

EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.

 

FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.

 

5/6/15

1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want.

 

 

2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21.

 

I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this:

 

Fx = 80

Fy = 50 to 70 range

Fz = 60 to 70 range

Mz = 100 to 110 range

 

Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB)

 

 

5/7/15

By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.

 

Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still   ):

 

Spindle Master Scale = 36

Fx = 100

Fy = 60

Fz = 60

Mz = 110

Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).

 

Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.

 

bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com

 

 

5/7/15

guys its easy....

 

I have a t300 GTE.

 

Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims)

 

I also set in Wheel Pcars menu

FFB 100

Dampening 15

Tyre Force 100

 

Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.

 

 

fonte : http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/17810-project-cars-force-feedback-tips-and-settings/

[atchoo]

Segnalo il lavoro di questo utente, che permette di ricopiare i setting di Jack Spade anche su console in maniera più comoda.

Attenzione che i valori riportati sono quelli PC, alcuni non sono ricopiabili pari pari (vai a capire perché): Relative Adjust Gain va messo a 1.08 (non 1.10) e Relative Adjust Clamp lasciato a 0.96 (non 0.95), per esempio, ma ci sono anche valori Spindle che hanno lo stesso problema.

Scusate se non uso i termini in italiano, ma ho PS4 impostata su inglese.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=901474&viewfull=1#post901474

Edited May 12, 2015 by atchoo

[dedraro]

Ragazzi ho scaricato le impostazioni di jack spade, ma non riesco a trovare la cartella FFB, in documenti\ project cars non c'è la si deve aggiungere semplicemente?

 

EDIT: ok andavi li semplicemente, comunque si devono aggiustare ancora un po

 

Tipo vorrei un volante che su rettilineo non sia completamente morto, cosa dovrei aggiustare?

Edited May 12, 2015 by dedraro

[atchoo]

Il tuo riferimento è Assetto Corsa? Se sul simulatore Kunos attivi gli effetti canned non c’è molto che si possa fare: sono ufficialmente assenti su Project CARS.

Però, mettendo “False” su alcune delle voci in fondo, qualcosa ottieni, ma non ti saprei indicare con precisione. A naso direi Scrub, Jolt e RumbleStrip: prova ad attivarne uno alla volta e vedi. Il problema è che non puoi regolare l’intensità dell’effetto.

[dedraro]

Il tuo riferimento è Assetto Corsa? Se sul simulatore Kunos attivi gli effetti canned non c’è molto che si possa fare: sono ufficialmente assenti su Project CARS.

Però, mettendo “False” su alcune delle voci in fondo, qualcosa ottieni, ma non ti saprei indicare con precisione. A naso direi Scrub, Jolt e RumbleStrip: prova ad attivarne uno alla volta e vedi. Il problema è che non puoi regolare l’intensità dell’effetto.

Si gli effetti fake comunque li ho ridotti al 20% anche su AC, dato che ho messo un bel trasduttore sotto al volante

 

Però comunque c'è ancora qualcosa che non va in Project Cars al livello ffb, anche settando questi valori, ho trovato un miglioramento solo con scrub false, mi sembra sempre molto strano, anche il ricentraggio mi pare ancora presente, con tutto che l'ho disabilitato, speriamo che rilascino qualche aggiornamento o settaggio ufficiale, non dico un ffb al pari di AC, ma almeno come un GSCE lo vorrei, perchè poi per il resto non se la cava affatto male, anzi!!

 

PS: ma solo a me con i kart da fermo impazzisce il volante? trema in una maniera assurda. O.o

Edited May 13, 2015 by dedraro

[atchoo]

Beh, da parte mia posso dire di apprezzare questo FFB come quello di GSCE, avanti ad AC nelle mie personali preferenze…