MaiDireSetup becomes NeverSaySetup by MaiDireCamber

[BoNI]

MaiDireCamber are very proud to annunce the International version of NeverSaySetup, now in 1.1.2 version.

MaiDireCamber Racing Team thanks for the translation (in alphabetical order):

- Andrea Lojelo

- Corrado Conti

- Leonardo Ratafi

DOWNLOAD HERE

http://maidirecamber.blogspot.com/

Edited July 16, 2019 by BoNI

[Guest CAR]

Brilliant!

[Guest bokoboko]

Hi,

im wondering if u can help me.

I have read many tutorials how to make setup and i continue studying them.I learn a lot but i still have many to learn and i have many questions.

I have the maidirecamber tutorial off course but im searching something with more detail.(i have other tutorials also)

SO,im asking if u have something with more detail about setups.

Even if its too big to read,many pages etc i dont mind!

I want sooo much to learn to make setups!

I can tweak the setups in some parts but not start from the begining to make a setup for a combo

Some questions in case anyone doesnt have something:

1) how to decide the stifness of springs(i know the general rule that in bumpy track low stifness etc but this doesnt help me cause i dont know how much low)

2) I find dificult to use the fast bumbs/rebounds cause i dont know excactly how they behave when u change them,i know only that are for kerbs/bumbs..But i know to change the slow cause i know excactly what they do,but fasts...

3)How should i change the gears? Even if i hear them well in my ears i see others pass me in straight with same wings etc..Do i have to know something about torch? But again how i should change them? For example the max distance between gears should be 30Km?

4)How much height diference should be between front and rear to reduce drag?

Pls if everyone can give me something ill appreciate !

[BoNI]

hi, you can find all the answers in the neversaysetup...

i can sum up something here, but my advice is to print the guide and keep it close to you for future reference when you need it... I can also recommend to you the baseline setups attached to the MDCBox, which may help you to have a good base to work...

copy/paste from the guide:

1 -

It can be divided in different categories of cars depending on the frequency of the spring at the wheel:

– 0.5 to 1.5 Hz = standard car

– 1.5 to 2.5 Hz = racing car without wings or ground effects

– 2.5 to 3.0 Hz = low downforce racing cars and GT cars

– 3.0 to 4.5 Hz = racing car with moderate downforce

– From 4.5 to 8.0 + Hz = racing car with high downforce

Generally, with most of the cars we tend to use a frequency of 10-20% higher in the rear

than the front; this "rule" does not always apply to cars with wings, where the frequency is

often higher on the front than the rear.

2 - From "critical section":

We can roughly say that a coefficient greater than 0.5 is ideal for control of the car’s body, therefore this value is used for 'slow' adjustments of the shock absorbers, while values between 0.3 and 0.4 are excellent at damping the imperfections of asphalt and curbs and are generally used for 'fast' adjustments of the shock absorbers . The damping coefficients depend on several factors; experience has shown that these values are recommended:

– Fast Bump and Fast Rebound = 0.3 to 0.4, in every case should be lower than the corresponding "slow" values

3 -

In principle, we shall adjust the first gear for the slower corners and the last gear according to the fastest point on the track, in order to hit the rev limiter just before the braking point. The other gears should be adjusted so they don't have too much of a jump in speed between them.

4 - about the ride height there are no predefined numbers, this adjustment requires several tests on the track to find the best values depending the car.

if you still to need help, i'll try to be more precise...

[Guest bokoboko]

Pls go for precise!!!

So lets take osella.I will put it in the racing car with moderate downforce right?

3 to 4.5 HZ...In the suspension iside game has many values to put.What i have to see to put low value or high..If it has bumps i have to put low but i dont know how much i need examples or pls tell me what i have to see...for example if in braking wheels are locked then means i have to increase the front value? (lets say braking is good,the multi is good etc..)

In slow bumps/rebounds i know how to use them cause for example if im braking and then turn and have understeer i lower the rear slow rebound,i mean i know what i have to see and if i dont see it i change it accordingly.But in the fast i dont know...should i go to kerbs and see how the suspension behaves? Lets say that i have 0 antirolbar and when i go through kerbs the car jumps..and lets say i have lowest spring stifness...Maybe the fast-rebound is very low or the fast-bump is very high and this doesnt allow spring to compress?

I dont know what i have to see.

About the gears ok.So i put first and last and then change the others to tha same distance between them.Thats clear thanks

[BoNI]

ok, we try to do a draft setup for the Osella...

SUSPENSION:

SPRINGS: we can try to use 40 N/mm springs at the front (3hz). at the rear we can start with a value 10% stiffer than the front, then 3.3 hz.

DAMPERS: on the bottom bar you will see 4 percent critical, each corresponds to a value of damping. we can start with values close to 30% - 40% - 50% - 70% critical, then at the front N/ms 1259, 1800, 2099 and 3000... at the rear 1819, 2600, 2885 and 4125... note, if you change the value of the spring and keep the values ​​of the dampers, the critical percentage will be different!

PRELOAD: when we have ROD it is better to adjust the height from the ground with this value, then set this value to 0

ROD: we can try to use as a starting height 20mm front and 30mm rear, then set 0 front and -35 rear. if the car touches the ground constantly is necessary to increase the ride height

PACKER: the number in parentheses is the real "light" that the shock works. if thecar is 20mm from the ground, probably with a higher value is very easy that will touch the ground

ARB: we can start with the bars very soft and look for a 51-53% front. so we can try with 0 to rear, and 15-20 N/mm to front...

EDIT:

if in braking you block the front tires, the problem is a too high percentage of front bias.

about fast dampers, you can safely remain at around 30-40%, also because it is very hard to find tracks very very bumped

Edited November 29, 2011 by BoNI

[Guest bokoboko]

OK i underestand everything.

Just to mention some things.

From my learning-studying-talking with guys that know more things from me i learned that if wheels in braking are locked then:

of course first thing is that i may have the brake balance much at front,BUT

also i may have huge psi in front tyres or the weight transfer comes very fast at the front and my wheels cant "handle" it so i may want stifer springs so they can handle more energy...right?

Are my thoughts corect?

Also one question that came up now...we see a lot that when braking,the wheel with lower energy(the outside one) locks..But this happens cause it doesnt have much weight right?

If its true then i have to put more weight to front so my solutions are:

Make the front height lower or make the rear higher,or maybe change the slow bumps/rebounds so the weight comes faster to front? or lower the psi in that outside wheel?

(lol when i say wheel i mean tyre).

Do my thoughts are in correct position?

Ill try asap the thing u say in ur posts.

Man what to say...i appreciate sooo much ur help!

I hope i dont make u bored with all my questions and sry

[BoNI]

you can lock the wheels for several reasons, including bump and inclinations of the track, but often the problem is the front bias too high.. or you're holding the brake pedal much more than is really necessary... however if you brake while you are entering the curve (trail braking technique), you can lock the internal wheel (and not the external, always when there is no particular inclination), because the weight is shifted to the outside of the curve, and the internal wheel is lighter...

it is true that the tires "are part of the suspension," but the tire pressure is regulated mainly to make the tires work well. to slow/increase the weight transfer there are the dampers...

i'm not bored, don't worry..

Edited November 30, 2011 by BoNI

[Guest bokoboko]

Question:

Im trying to figure out the "A critical damping of 1.0 (100%) corresponds to the value in which all the force is dissipated without oscillations".

I suppose this goes to the fast values right?

But it means for both? bump and rebound?

For example:

I have fast bump/rebound critical lets say about 95%/98% : 4500/4600 (rebound must be everytime higher right? i read it somewhere)

So slow must be higher values as the guide says so lets say slow bymp/rebound 4600/4700 and critical is 96%/99%.

Is my numbers right? There are very close to the fast valuse but are ok right?

So that means that i have close to 0 about oscilations...

But if my thoughts are correct then every time we want the fast values as close as possible to 100% critical to have 0 oscilations,but then the guide says fast values 0.3 to 0.4...What im not getting here?

PS:Ill make questions every now and then im trying to understand all these ur saying to me.I take it step by step while i practise in the tracks to see the theory to the road.

Edited December 6, 2011 by bokoboko

[BoNI]

iI can hardly explain it in english (also in italian is not easy ) but i'll try...

all oscillations are damped. if we use values ​​less than 1.0 (100%) we have oscillations before all the stored energy is dissipated; if we use values ​​greater than 1 will not, because it means that dissipates more energy than there is accumulated and the stationary conditions are reached more slowly.

we have 4 different settings of the shock, but the shock is only one. we have two settings when compressing (bump), and two when it extends (rebound)... This means that if you set all the settings to the same value, there is no longer the fast / slow because they still running in the same way .. in your case, both the fast and slow dampers work at the same way (like a slow dampers)...

in motorsport has been designed that values to 0.3-0.4 (30-40%) are good values ​​for fast adjustments (curbs, asphalt bumps, etc.), while above 0.5 (50%) are good values ​​to control the movements of the body car.

a practical example, you know when a car has shock absorbers exhausts?! well, in that case, imagine that the oscillation ratio is approximately 0.1 (10%), so the car tends to bounce for a long time before it is stabilized. I hope i was clear enough...

here is a graph (similar to that in the guide) that shows the different behaviors depending on the value of critical damping.

if you understand the graph, you should have understood everything...